Showing posts with label Peyresq. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peyresq. Show all posts

Thursday, 30 August 2018

Indian Spice

My friend from India
A while ago I went to Peyresq, France for a summer school in connection with my PhD studies, as you do! It was a wonderful time up in the Alps (blog post here) with other PhD students, who were about the same age as my children. They were lovely and didn't make me feel old at all. We kept in touch but contact dwindled over time, although I did get to meet one of them when I went to Berlin. The offer was open though, if anyone wanted to visit they would be more than welcome. One of them did get in touch with me fairly recently, he was from India and had since married and moved to Germany for a year. He fancied a trip to see Latvia and Estonia with his wife and they would love to call in and see us and spend some time on the farm. The timing was perfect as our other guests had left the week before.
The nights may have been cool but the talk around the table
was warm

It wasn't raining all the time but still plenty of talking and
eating 
The weather was not great, but in many ways perfect. We badly needed the rain and it also meant there was not much to do but sit around the table and talk. As anyone knows who follows this blog, we love to sit around a table to talk and eat. So we not only enjoyed the delicious vegetables from the garden and greenhouse but also some genuine Indian food made by our visitors. It is a good job that Ian installed a light in our greenhouse earlier on in the year, as the chat lingered late on into the evenings even though some of them were a little on the cool side.
I had to go and drag them away from the alpacas as Ian
was on a roll. Maybe it was a bad idea to say they had time
to see the alpacas before we ate

Love this picture of the two little ones. It looks like they have
had a falling out. 
Of course we talked about our studies, but we also talked about farming. It was quite an education for city dwellers, especially city dwellers coming from a city the size of Dehli at over 20 million. I can't even begin to imagine a city that size. Riga is only around 800,000 and the population of Latvia is less than 2 million now. They would love to move away and get some land and they were exploring the options. We took them to see our goat farming friends and they commented on the contrasts between our conversations which included beavers and beaver dams, wolves and bears (no we don't have many, but there are some) and cheese recipes from Latvia and India, with the kinds of conversations they would normally have with their friends about cars and taxes, car parking spots (not easy in Dehli apparently) and traffic, things to buy and holidays to go on. So quite a contrast. Still it has been a great time with lots of ideas for them and we all have plenty to think about. I loved it when discussing changes that needed to happen in city management and my friend turned to his wife and said that maybe they were the ones to influence the change. I do hope so!
We went for walks too. We were on a mushroom hunt, which
is the best sort of hunt for vegetarian meals. The mushrooms
are just starting to appear now that the mornings are damp,
even if we are still not getting a huge amount of rain

Trying out the tractor
Ian has been doing quite a bit of preparation for our new arrivals next month. We need to build a new alpaca house, which will give us the room for expansion to our maximum capacity of around 20 alpacas - not that we are getting that many alpacas but we need to be prepared for that number when they have babies. This meant first relocating the old chicken house. That will be seeing a new use as a root cellar, but that will be a tale for another blog. First it had to be removed from the paddock area. Ian accomplished this by first taking off the roof then fixing some planks on the bottom to make it into a giant sled, which could be pulled by the tractor. He also moved a concrete beam from one of the old electric poles into the paddock for part of the base of the new alpaca house.
Ready to eat in the greenhouse. Thanks to our friends for
these photos. We didn't get the chance to take many, but the
ones below are by Ian

Rain clouds building, but still not much rain
We also finally got around to cutting the boys toe nails, since Ian's back had improved enough to be able to tackle the job. Well all of them except Brencis, as he needs to have fighting teeth removed too and that means pinning him down on the floor. There have been a few groups of visitors to see the alpacas this week too. One of the groups took three of our boys for a walk. The boys were very well behaved, even Freddie who was being taken for his first trip out with paying guests. We just had time for a sit down before the next group arrived. One of the groups of visitors this week arrived just as we were about to sit down and eat lunch, so Ian ate cold soup, while I sat and chatted with our Indian friends.
Rain to the north of us

A rainbow anyway
Summer is racing away and the land is beginning to take on the hues of autumn. I'm getting back into academic mode and so may or may not blog next week as I am away, leaving Ian home alone again.

We had some extra visitors one misty morning. Yes it is that
time of the year when cows are escaping

While we waited for our neighbour to turn up, this young bull
decided to go and see the alpacas. He stood for ages just looking

These mushrooms appeared in our field

Apparently not good for eating

Shame as they are huge

Monday, 16 September 2013

Peyresq and a little bit more

Not quite Latvia! The view from our lecture room on
my course
Well what can I say about the last two weeks? It was good! Very good! It started off with a fleeting visit by some friends from Fort Collins in Colorado, where we lived for two years. Unfortunately we couldn't manage more than a couple of days between us and all too soon we were waving them goodbye at the airport, only it was me leaving by plane and not them. They went on to meet other friends in Riga. One of our friends helped me pick tomatoes and I managed to process some of them for the freezer, but not all of them, the rest was left for Ian to continue, along with a whole list of other jobs I left him with. At least they got to see our home and where we live now and we had a chance to talk - nothing new there then, there is always time to talk. I am sad to hear, though, that while I was away that Fort Collins and places further afield - places we visited like Boulder and Estes Park, have been hit by flooding. Some of those canyons that looked remarkably like places I visited this last week have been deluged with life-threatening storm surges of water racing down the canyons. It always amazed me to see the signs "In case of flood, climb!" I used to wonder how on earth anyone could climb out of those canyons in a hurry. Those signs were obviously designed for times like  now.

My morning walk to breakfast
It was all too early in the morning as we set off to the airport a week and half ago and so soon after the drinks were served on the flight I fell asleep. I woke up to see a cloudy scene with some small wispy bits of cloud above the main body of cloud. Well that's what I thought at first, then I realised they weren't wispy bits of cloud but mountains covered in snow sticking up above the clouds. I had reached the alps. We flew in to Nice from over the sea and it was obvious why the coastline is called Cote d'Azur, the sea indeed was a beautiful azure blue and quite breathtaking from the air, so was the airport and not for its beauty. The airport is situated on a spit of land in the sea, come in too early and you would be in the sea, go too far and you would be in the sea also. Well that is what it looked like as we flew in, but it was bigger than it looked from the air - thank goodness!
Or maybe this way instead
But not always easy to walk on

Peyresq, perched in the mountains
I arrived a good hour before the bus to my final destination, but I soon spotted a someone who looked like they maybe heading for the same place I was. It is not every day you see someone in the airport with a cardboard tube and a backpack, sure enough it was a young lass from Poland attending the same course I was on. It was a good job really as I would have looked a bit silly introducing myself. By the time the bus arrived, there was quite a group of us who had gathered, all except me I think was carrying either a cardboard tube or a plastic poster holder. My poster was in my suitcase, the largest suitcase we had, as I didn't have a cardboard tube, as I mentioned last week and it was the only suitcase big enough to hold the poster (birthday/christmas hint here, as I am sure it won't be the last time I carry a poster on a trip). I felt rather silly with such a large suitcase and I was rueing the decision when we got to the village, which was going to be home for the next 10 days. Not only was my room nearly at the top of the house, it was up a rocky steep path and I had to carry that enormous suitcase up it all. Fortunately someone helped me with my rucksack that I was also carrying. It didn't help that Peyresq is situated at 1500m and so I was also a little breathless. It was a good job that I was shifting hay bales earlier on in the year, in obvious preparation for the task.
A steep gorge in the Alps. Those cliffs are
vertical

Pituresque windows 
I was a little worried about the course, as I knew I would be far older than most of the other students, but fortunately for me there were a few others who were older than my children. The younger ones were very gracious though as they accepted us all regardless of age. The only time that age was anything of an issue was when I sensed a need to urge on the younger generation. They will have far more time than I have to make a difference in this world and I am sure that many of them there will go on to do that. They had such a passion for this world and the living things on it, as you would expect of ecologists and conservationists, but also a passion for people that was a refreshing mix. Too often I see scant regard for this living planet, which I believe was created by God and as such believe that we have no right to decide that a species doesn't matter. If it was created by God then save it, if at all possible. I don't think it is an issue either that justice for people trumps these issues, as often the race for profit impacts indigenous groups and the poor, just as much as other living creatures. What was also refreshing was seeing scientists getting all touchy, feely instead of just objective as they have been taught to be. Scientists have feelings too and often they are deeply saddened by the impacts mankind are making on this planet and rightly so. Well rant over, I shall move on.

It was not all sunshine! Honest! Someone stole the mountains
The little church in Peyresq
I think the best thing to do would be to highlight some of the snippets of my time in Peyresq, a little village perched on the rocks in the Southern French Alps. On the first day I was rather amused by God's sense of humour that meant that the "random" piece of paper I was given with a statement on, was Genesis 1:28, but written in old English. We were meant to decide whether the statement was more about society or about nature and more about man's domination of nature or nature's domination of man. Well in the old version, words like "man having dominion over nature" meant the meaning was quite clear, but it is not a view I take due to the context of other verses, where man is supposed to care for nature and I said as such. When asked if I was a Christian, of course I replied yes, as did the other guy who got the same statement. Coincidence! Methinks not and I'm sure I heard a snigger from my Father in Heaven.

Spot the shepherds hut
My roommate was a lovely lass, but she was a little concerned for me after the first couple of days when it became obvious that we weren't heading for our room around the same time at night and so she organised to go to a separate room and that meant I had the room to myself. I was also blessed by the care and concern of many on our downward decent from a long walk in the mountains to visit a shepherd who lives on the mountains with the sheep in summer (although the one we met was a stand in, I think the other shepherd was sick). My knee started to act up about half way down and folks were rather worried about me when I had to stop to stretch muscles. One of the leaders fortunately had a spare walking stick with him and so he lent me his and I therefore made it down fine after that, I even carried on carrying my rucksack despite the offer from one gentleman to carry it for me. I have felt rather spoilt at times this last week, especially with the food. The food was very good, although I really appreciated the term demitarian by the end of the week. A demitarian is someone who eats less meat and more vegetables, a state that is a mystery to someone from the Provence so we were told.

I love old doors! There would have been more
but my camera batteries died
I didn't just get to spend the week with a highly intelligent bunch of people, they were also great fun to be with and incredibly creative. We were often entertained by one guy playing the piano and sometimes a lass joined him and they ad libbed the music, others joined in with tambourines, shakers and guitar. On the last day the students put on a play to encapsulate what they would recommend to people in the region where we were studying, based on some of the things we had learnt along the way. Unfortunately I missed actually being in it due to a miscommunication, but it meant I got to watch the whole thing and it was great. The best part for me was when a guy playing Jesus, told everyone what a mess they were making of the world and gave them a second chance. Brilliant! Now what would we do differently if we were given that chance? Well in the play, the ageing farmers weren't the only ones cultivating the land the younger ones were also there and developing plenty of local products to sell to ecologically aware tourists who respected the farmers and their farming ways. They utilised other forms of energy, such as wind and solar - of course! The flocks of sheep were kept in smaller herds and had more people looking after them to give more employment and meant they didn't over graze the mountains and so on. As I said, brilliant!

Lavendin field
We also got to go on a day long tour of the area errrr I mean field study trip of course. This meant visiting the lavender farms or lavendin farms as we found out. Lavender grows wild up in the mountains but the big farms utilise a more productive hybrid of lavender. The soil is so rocky though that the fields there are not as lush and green as fields around us here in Latvia, but then again we don't grow hectare after hectare of sunflowers and lavendin. We didn't go at the most beautiful time of the year when the lavendin blooms, they had already been cut when we got there. That was maybe a good thing as the scent of lavender was heavy in the air without the blooms, goodness only knows what it must smell like with the flowers in bloom. The sunflowers also looked rather sad, with their heads hanging low. They must have been close to being cut as they also looked rather dry. We visited a goat farmer who told us how they took the goats up the mountains to feed amongst the trees of the mountain slopes. The trees were planted to stop soil erosion after problems in the 18th century due to the forest all being cut down. The farmer was paid to graze her herds of goats by the State so that it reduced the risk of forest fires. The only problem now though is that wolves are moving into the area and her herd has been attacked a few times now. The goats are now accompanied by someone, but of course it is  getting scary. We wended our way along canyons and through pretty villages also clinging to rocky outcrops like Peyresq and along the valley bottoms populated by people now that villages don't have to cling to rocky outcrops for protection from raiders. We visited a lake that was created by a hydroelectric dam, providing water for two cities as well as electric, but in the process flooding productive agricultural land and places where 4 tonnes of truffles were collected annually and bringing in a revenue of millions in the process. Progress? Difficult one that as the lake also provides flood protection, except one year when the normal rate of 30m3 per second was increased to 1400m3 per second.
The lake, under which used to be the truffles
the farms and a village. Now clean drinking
water for cities
The goat farmer also had pigs. These pigs are taking
advantage of the acorns from the oak trees
Well those are a few of my highlights from the last two weeks. Of course there is more to say and maybe some of my new friends will add their favourites, but for now that will do from me. If you want to know more, then you will just have to come and visit and spend a few hours chatting. I will finish though with this story of my trip home. I've been talking about the wild boar and the problems they cause a lot over the past week and on the way home we nearly collided with a whole family of them. I've seen family groups a couple of times before but never so many, it was obviously a good breeding year for them. Hmmm!
Clinging to the gorge walls

A small French village in the Verdon region

A view of a valley in the Verdon region